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Ed Bristol
  

1.78 Untreated Brazil Paraiba & 0.49 in White Gold

white gold and diamonds around a two carat unheated burma sapphire in royal blue
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From the David Jerome Collection:
Unheated 1.78 ct Brazilian Paraiba (sold)
in 18k White Gold
with 0.49ct Diamonds
Medium Neon Blue

Details:

The Setting: Three Level Pyramid Art-Deco/Victorian Fleur-de-Lie Ring (Unisex?)

- 18K White Gold with UK Hallmark
- 20mmx26mm Visual Top Dimension
- Extra-Wide Rectangular-Cut Band
- Four Prongs plus Double-Halo
- Total 0.49 carats of 128 conflict-free diamonds in VS2 (or better) and color G (or better) 
- 4.81 gram (incl. gems) 
- Massive visual but low weight 
- Size USA 7 (re-sizing free of charge)

Comment: Massive looks, but light-weight! This paradox (and others) was achieved by consequently cutting out rectangular areas in the band and inserting a fleur-de-lis crown holding the basket. IMHO, this ring has an almost androgynous character; I would wear it for the right occasion, say opera, and my wife might, too. The band with its hard edges and straight lines is softened only by the oval shaped gem. If this would have been an emerald cut, we would perhaps have categorized it as a gent's ring, or not. The fleur-de-lis crown under the basket is an equally androgyny symbol. At the same time, every piece of surface has been encrusted with small diamonds - a flashy show of 'glitteria'; perhaps a rather feminine feature. But then again, note how the band is almost as wide as the gem is long. A daring mix of styles and characters, with compliments from David and his London goldsmith who designed and forged this one-of-a-kind jewel, époque-crossing and thus of timeless beauty. 


The Stone:

- Unheated & Untreated Brazilian Paraiba Tourmaline 1.78 carat
- Shape Round: 11.02x6.34x3.96 mm
- Cut: Mixed/Step
- Color Grade: Good
- Tone: Medium 50
- Color Zoning: None
- Clarity: Lightly Included (see comment)
- Cutting Grade: Excellent (flawless but shallow)
- Depth: 62%
- Brilliancy: 66%
- Origin: Minas Gerais, Brazil

Treatment: None

Certificate: WGI 9624103056

Overall Grade: Good

Comment: Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines may well have become the most famous gems outside the big four or five. Many jewelers will claim to know, or have seen, or even to own one, but the truth is, even hard-boiled collectors cannot notch-up many sightings in their lives. Mozambique tourmalines with similar characteristics have loosened the scarcity somewhat but true Brazilian Paraibas are rarely seen amongst mere mortals. Unless you are a pro-dealer, or have been born in Minas Gerais, chances are small to have witnessed their particular charm. This here, 1.78 carat oval gem, is not perfect, which the price reflects even after setting in such a unique designer dress. Still, it is an honor to present an untreated, fully transparent, if not eye-clean, blue Paraiba of Brazilian heritage. The tone is medium 50, the bright neon blue, not pale. The giant face-up with 11x6mm from well under two carats MUST have be traded in for the symmetrically shaped window. Some inclusions (see close-up) sit in the window and thus may be visible to the unaided eye. More honest I cannot be. If the gem were flawless, it alone might cost you six digits. Here is a perfectly pretty and highly sophisticated gem in an 'haute-culture-setting' at a fair rate. 

 

    

  

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